![]() Here's a couple of my build threads to give you an idea of what TEKNO offers:Īnother way to save money is to buy a used kit from a racer. On the menu from TEKNO's main page, select "Parts" -> "Legacy" to see everything that's supported and if they discontinue a part, there will always be a forward upgrade path to keep a dated chassis going. ![]() TEKNO has recently become the dominant choice for bashers because they offer a 50% lifetime warranty on parts as well as support all their legacy platforms: If you buy a race grade kit, then all the upgrades are already included, not to mention a bunch of extra tuning options that you won't find on most basher grades. Reason being that basher grades aren't as durable because they don't have any upgrades, many short cuts have been taken to cut costs as much as possible. Most brands use Metric hardware these days, here's a listing of my tools:īuilding a kit is by far the best way to go if you're going to take the hobby serious, unfortunately, the price difference between basher grade and race grade is very steep. Tires ran on a race track tend to wear faster, especially if the track is ran dry you can go through a set of tires in 1 day, but if they wet the track, then they might last a handful of race days. If the track is hard packed with a blue groove and ran dry, then something like this will probably do better: the following tires will do okay and last many months:įor track use on a clay surface you'll want a race grade tire where this tire here will work for 90% of the time: If you want to do speed runs and need high performance grip, then you'll want a race grade tire, where these will last a respectable amount of time (several months):įor general bashing around dirt,grass, sand, etc. These are actual rubber tires, but are VERY hard and will provide some decent grip, but can also drift as well where both the PVC tires above and the following tires will last many years before they need to be replaced: Make sure the review isn't biased because the guy got a free vehicle to do a video on. As Bill says, you'll need different tires for the many surfaces you may be using.ĭoes your dealer also have RedCat? They are in between the toy grade stuff and the high- end stuff. Look at the ground clearance for anything you buy. Grass requires the chassis to be as high as is aesthetically possible. You need to be willing to do your own wrenching and that goes for all makes and models. The idea that the local hobby shop will be doing the repairs for you is not economically feasible. Getting out there and playing rough may result in a lot of repairs. Don't get in over your head and then take a HUGE loss if you don't like the hobby. Remember, the dealer is making his profit based on how high he can get you to go. The Slash 4x4 VXL is a perfectly respectable truck for a lot less money than the Ultimate. The Arrma might be less expensive, but still quite a layout of $$$ for your first RC vehicle. My son talked about buying a Granite and I know that stuff I mentioned applies to it. The modular design is a great feature, but it's still all plastic and needs to be upgraded/ changed over. Likewise, if you decided to buy the 3S version (brushless) and then wanted to upgrade to the 6S parts, they aren't compatible. The Arrma's can be had as a brushed version, but, unless things have changed, cannot be upgraded to brushless very easily. Talk to the dealer about upgrading the Arrma if you decide to stay in the hobby. Use an air compressor to blow your truck down immediately after use each day as well, use furniture polish to make the plastic look new and keep your truck squeaky clean. The investment up front for the purposeful tires will save you money and frustration. Invest in a set of street wheels as well as a set of clay track wheels to be used in each separate surface condition. Carefully pry rubber shields off the bearings, flush with WD40 Dry Lube and repack with fresh grease before snapping the rubber shields back on the bearings, also discard/replace any bearings that are crunchy when you spin during the flush. I like to swap out a complete set of bearings between rebuilds and will go through the old bearings after the rebuild is complete to make the rebuild go faster. ![]() ![]() Try to plan your trips to the beach around your rebuild schedule where you need to rebuild every 15-20 battery packs anyway.Ī rebuild requires you to pull every bearing, apply fresh grease on all rubber seals in the diffs and shocks as well as replacing the fluids in both diffs and shocks. Beach is okay but VERY important to do a complete rebuild of the truck immediately after you are done for the day.
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